Every engine from a stock basic build to the most extreme engine we offer is first run tested for a couple hours on and off. While checks and rechecking everything for anything, including water or oil leaks of any kind, oil pressure, temperature, valve train noise, valve lash, spring pressure, oil sample checks using stainless steel oil filter cartridge are checked for nothing unusual at all. After the run test, the coolant is pressurized for the time of one hour with to make sure there are no porosity issues or water leaks anywhere. It can happen in blocks, especially CNC ported heads when allowed to set under pressure on a hot engine for this time to find any and all parts after being heated up, cooled down to talk.
Burnished parts that run closely together to make sure nothing was missed with the filter checks and only after all this, we then and only then start the dyno session with power pulls.
With hundreds of logged dyno pulls, we know exactly what fuel, jetting and timing to use for any engine. After the extensive dyno testing the numbers are always recorded and everything is printed in the dyno report.
We do not use any air but what the engine can pull in through the large fresh air duct from outside air only. We have a correction factor gauge in the dyno cell to let us know just how good and bad the air is. We do not pressurize the dyno cell, nor do we chill the air supply with any AC unit in line or supply any forced air from any outside source like a huge blower inline. Some will say this is needed to get the real horsepower from the engine? Well if that were true, then we would not need a correction factor to work off of sea level as every racer in the country has to do because of where she or he races. What we have outside is what we get in the dyno room with a correction factor to adjust the power for the air. Sea level and cool air is always going to pick up the engines power up so that is a given.
We also use a 30lb steel flywheel on every engine to make sure our pulls are slow and accurate. Only when we are satisfied and the engine meets the requirements, we then let the engine sit overnight with hot pressures all the way down to cold no pressure to make certain no issues with porosity issues are possible with all spark plugs out. The next morning we recheck for coolant in the cylinders, also again for any debris in the filter, recheck valve adjustment and spring pressure. Then the engine is taken off the dyno, coolant is drained from the block, boxed up and sent to the customer. If we do not dyno test the engine, there is no warranty what so over.
The warranty does not include any shipping from you to me, or back to you from me if there is ever anything we need to do. Any charges what so ever out of pocket for shipping, any related damages or expenses to any persons or personal self or any one else that may have been affected from a racing engine failure are not covered. These are racing engines that sometimes break from issues beyond any one ever knowing the future or what may and could happen. We see race engines on TV blowing up while racing every weekend as well as hear of someone having engine issues. It does happen to the best.
Only then does the engine carry a one year warranty against MANUFACTURES proven defects. for repair only. The warranty excludes all Nitrous, Supercharged and Turbo Charged engines as well as any engine operating over 7800 rpm and or if any of the conditions below are present with inspection; see conditions below.
Reasons for NON WARRANTY ISSUES
If any power adder has ever been used
Abuse or neglect has been detected such as; improper gear/torque converter being used causing engines rpm to be over RED LINE
Servicing the Engine Oil and Filter every Twenty Five Passes and using Oil with Verified ZDDP Ratings of 2000+ppm (Renegade Racing or Lucas 10635 Break in Oils as well as others that will tell you the PPM are ok. If an oil manufacture will not tell you what the PPM of ZDDP are and claim it is a traded secret, put the oil down and buy what I have instructed you to.
Changes to the engine for which it was not built for such as running NOS or Marine or Street Operation for Racing Engines
Additional required items not installed that causes damage, (such as radiator size as well as cfm fans needed, Proper Gear Ratio and Converter for Power being Made, (rpm red line issues) Proper Fuel Pressure, Fuel Delivery and and Air Supply
All warranty procedures and repairs must be done at 36389 DuPont Blvd, Selbyville DE 19975 location to be in effect. No exceptions
Shipping for warranty work, from and back to the customer in the original container, is the only cost and responsibility to you the customer if coverage is not found to be voided from above conditions
Most engines are designed to operate safely and properly under 7600 rpm. Ask for your exact applications and rpm limits. (some exclusions are in affect, ask when ordering)
With Racing engines, sometimes they fail from just the abuse of making power. Racing is a dangerous sport that people sometimes do get hurt or killed from many different situations that can arise.
Parts that are put under extreme conditions do fail in some instances beyond anyone’s control while racing. Make sure all Safety Equipment is up to date and used at all time.
Any additional repairs, down time, out of pocket expenses, lost wages or personal health issues are considered “non refundable or retrievable” under any circumstances if a failure occurs while racing the engine.
AGAIN, The warranty listed above is for the repair of the engine at 36389 DuPont Blvd, Selbyville DE 19975 and only if it is a proven true manufactures defect that no one can not foresee. ie, a rod breaks, valve spring breaks, piston pin breaks, crankshaft break, roller lifter break etc. We do not manufacture these items and all liabilities are solely the manufactures of any racing component.
Most manufactures do not warranty any racing items and the risk of using such is solely upon the final purchaser of the engines with no recourse. Ask all questions before purchasing any race engine for what is actually covered.
The purchase of such race engine and the use of the item is the acceptable responsibility and liability solely of the purchaser and he or she understands this fully. Ask all questions before purchasing these types of engine
What to do if a return is necessary; except for all special ordered short blocks and custom rotators once balanced and or assembled, they have no return policy what so ever or for any other reason than DAMAGE FROM SHIPPING. If damage is seen on the box or crate once it is delivered, you have to make the shipping company open it so you can see that no damage or damaged was done. You then have to call me immediately at 302-436-4200 and you do not sign off on the shipping manifest saying your satisfied. If you sign the shipping manifest before you check, there are no warranties what so ever.
You must contact us at 302-436-4200 to inform us you are returning your engine for warranty. You will receive a RMA #. We will not except anything being returned without the RMA. Make sure you have that before shipping because it will be refused and will go back to the sender.
You must ship the engine properly crated as it was shipped to you. Returns must include the exact engine originally shipped to you the customer.
The engine will be disassembled, inspected and if found to be eligible under the warranty provisions, all repairs will be made to the engine as needed. There are no refunds on any racing engine covered by our One Year Warranty. It will be repaired, dyno tested and made right with new parts if and as needed.